ILS-getaway

Tucked away high in the north, where the map of India narrows and the region becomes mountainous, lies the state of Himachal Pradesh, a land of undulating hills, the summer capital of the Raj, and one of the Indian tourist’s favorite haunts.

Kullu-Manali are neighboring resorts, surrounded by pine-covered hills and lush meadows. While its secluded hill retreats offer ideal spots for anglers and those wanting a quiet getaway, the barely accessible valleys of Lahaul and Spiti are a trekker’s delight.

To the well-traveled eye, the region is reminiscent of Austria, with an eastern flavor. With conifer-clad, snow-cloaked mountains, chalet-like huts with overhanging balconies and serene blue valleys watered by snow-fed streams, Shimla, the capital of Himachal Pradesh, still maintains a hangover of the Raj. Shimla, Dalhousie, Kullu, Kasauli, Manali, Chail and Kufri are a few of the hill stations that are particularly cool in summers and offer breathtaking scenery. Dharmasala, where the Dalai Lama lives, is another important center on the tourist map. The foremost shrine in Kangra town is the Brajeshwari Devi temple. Thirty kilometers from Kangra, where Kangra Museum has an impressive art collection, is Jwalamukhi, one of the most revered temples in northern India.

A variety of programs and a splendid setting make Shimla’s summer festival a memorable event. In June, Shimla hosts the Red Cross Fair, sports tournaments, flower shows, a photographs and posters exhibition, and a fashion show based on folk costumes.

The Kangra festival is also held in June at Kangra. At Solan, on the third Sunday of the month, the Solan fair honors the goddess Shilooni, the presiding deity of the region. On June’s full moon night, the Ghantal festival is held at Lahaul’s Guru Ghantal monastery.

In the arid Trans-Himalaya, at Kaza’s Ladarcha fair, the old trade routes come alive during July as traders barter and sell a variety of goods and produce. At Keylong, the Lahaul festival is also held this month.

Chamba’s famous Minjar fair, which celebrates the bounty of nature and prays for a good harvest, is normally held in August. Also in Chamba, the Manimahesh Yatra to the sacred tarn of Manimahesh is held immediately after the festival of Janamashtmi. Celebrated in Chamba, Kullu and elsewhere, Chrewal, Badronjo or Patroru is a festival of fire and flowers - and a time for purification of the fields.

Himachal has been known since the earliest of times as “Devabhoomi,” the abode of the Gods. The splendid heights of the Himalayan ranges, with its great scenic beauty and aura of spiritual calm, seem the natural home of the Gods. Two thousand or more temples all over the state reiterate this fact.

As a state full of isolated valleys and high ranges, several different styles of temple architecture developed: there are temples with carved stone shikharas, pagoda style shrines, temples that look like Buddhist Gompas and Sikh Gurdwaras. Several are important places of pilgrimage and each year attract thousands of devotees from all over the country.

It is said that the Sikhs came to the Shivalik Hills in Himachal Pradesh in 1695, at the invitation of the ruler of Sirmaur, to help him fight the Mughals. Shri Guru Gobind Singh, with his army, settled in Paonta Sahib in the foothills. During the reign of Maharaja Ranjit Singh, at the end of the 18th century, many of the western hill states also came under Sikh sovereignty.

Paonta Sahib is the main center of Sikh pilgrimage in Himachal. The gurdwara, picturesquely located on the banks of the River Yamuna in the district Sirmour, is venerated due to its association with Guru Gobind Singh, the tenth Sikh Guru. In March, an important fair is held and the holy Granth Sahib is taken out in procession.

The remote valleys of Lahaul, Spiti and Kinnaur have strong Buddhist traditions. Splendid gompas, Buddhist monasteries, built along bare mountain-sides, seem to be a part of the rugged terrain and are the repositories of a wealth of Buddhist art and culture. The dim, cool interiors of ancient monasteries glow with the brilliance of painted murals, stuccos and elaborate thangkas framed with rich borders of silk.

In Dharamsala is a marvelous Tibetan township where an entire cultural tradition is being nurtured. It is a center that attracts scholars, tourist and pilgrims.

Himachal Pradesh is a heaven for the avid golfer. At Naldhera, 23 kilometers beyond Shimla, is one of the oldest golf courses in India. With topography that is absolutely natural, the course was originally created by the British Viceroy of India, Lord Curzon. The par 68, nine hole course is regarded as one of the most challenging in the country.

The main trekking areas in Himachal are the Dhauladhar and Pir Panjal ranges, routes over the passes between the Shimla region and the Kullu valley, the numerous treks out of Kullu, and select tracks in the Trans-Himalayan regions of Kinnaur, Lahaul and Spiti. Most trekking areas are between 1,500 meters and 6,000 meters.

With well over 270 trails, the variation in terrain is also enormous. Low scrub-land and paths through paddy fields give way to trails strewn with pine needles. Then come woods of oak and flowering rhododendron, which merge into forests of Himalayan cedar, or “deodar,” and spruce.

On most trails, small pastoral hamlets dot the way. Cunningly hidden between the high mountains are passes once known only to migrant shepherds and dare-all traders. These led to the fabulous swift rivers of the arid Trans-Himalaya.

For hardcore rock climbers, the area around Manali presently forms the core of mountaineering in Himachal Pradesh. The Beas Kund region and lower reaches of the Hanuman Tibba, the Manali and Shitidhar peaks around the source of the river Beas, and the Deo Tibba area are suggested for beginners with some experience. The Chandra Bhaga ranges, the Pir Panjal and Dhauladhar ranges are also popular.

Himachal has an enormous range of weather conditions. Most areas of Bilaspur, Solan, Sirmour, Hamirpur, Kangra and Una are largely warm to hot in summer, and mild to pleasant in winter.

The districts of Chamba, Kinnaur, Kullu, Lahaul-Spiti and Shimla are largely mild to pleasant in summer and cold in winter.

Some tips to keep in mind. Travelers to the region should stay only in hotels or guest houses registered with the Department of Tourism. A certificate to this effect is usually prominently displayed by any of these establishments. In the main tourist centers, the rates of porters are fixed. For hiring porters and pack animals, especially for treks, the rates are normally negotiable.

Curio and souvenir seekers will do well if they shop at “Himachal Emporium” outlets, where the prices are reasonable and the quality is ensured. Visitors can also buy directly from craftsmen located throughout the state.

Credit cards are accepted at most shops, restaurants and hotels in the main towns. Their use is minimal outside the main towns where all payments are in cash.

For sight-seeing and excursions, contact the Himachal Tourism offices or government-approved travel agents and tour operators. Himachal Tourism has its own fleet of coaches and taxis.

Visitors are also advised that, where available, they should use pre-paid taxis and auto rickshaws or, pay by meter, or ask for the fare chart.

Most importantly, travelers should observe local traditions and customs, especially while visiting religious places.